I will’t wait to go back to Borgo (124 E. twenty seventh Side road). Neither will you upcoming your first meal at the most efficient unutilized Italian eating place for grown-ups in lots of a Neapolitan, Abbruzzese or Roman moon.
Its obtainable, regions-roaming menu scored top on all however considered one of fourteen dishes I had in each and every section. It do business in a richly seasoned, meticulously turned-out kaleidoscope of common Italian pleasures made unutilized.
Proprietor Andrew Tarlow was once a motive force in the back of Brooklyn’s culinary revolution, from Diner underneath the Williamsburg Bridge strategy to Roman’s in Citadel Greene. I omit his long-gone Reynard within the Wythe Resort, too.
However 140-seat Borgo, his first foray into Long island and his first unutilized park anyplace in ten years, is extra grown-up, each in kitchen consistency and sympathy stage — even supposing it’s virtually as raucous regardless of white tablecloths and reasonably-spaced tables.
Tarlow audaciously selected the web site of much-loved I Trulli, which drew crowds for almost thirty years sooner than it fell to the pandemic in 2022.
Even supposing he changed I Trulli’s bones with finely crafted unutilized fabrics, it appears to be like just like its predecessor, right down to the wood-burning oven, which were given just a pristine paint process.
The form’s common: two immense eating rooms with arched ceilings, the unedited I Trulli bar on the entrance and a colorfully lit rear farmland. My favourite parks to sit down are the cubicles that face the bustling perceptible kitchen and fireside within the aspect room, the place the din is quite softer.
Chef Jordan Frosolone, a veteran of the Momofuku empire and Marco Canora’s Fireplace, conjures up I Trulli’s rustic spirit and a great deal improves on it. The home focaccia is a crackling, tomato-free spin at the Ligurian unedited with Robiola and Fontina cheeses tucked between slim sheets of dough. Experience it sparingly otherwise you’ll be too complete to advance on.
Anchovies from Italy and Spain, spine-free and served with highly spiced purple Neonata butter, are significance a talk over with lonely. Rounds of candy-like delicata squash are crackling juiceless, sprinkled with Pecorino cheese, honey-drizzled and spiked with chile.
Some of the pastas ($29 to $34), essentially the most exciting is timballo di Anelletti, a drum-shaped, pie-like affair stuffed with braised pork cheeks and ricotta salata.
Relying on which historical past you imagine, its origins are both in Abruzzo or Palermo, Sicily. Frosolone’s model is alleged to be impressed by way of a dish Stanley Tucci cooked in “Big Night.” Nevertheless it’s so just right, I couldn’t lend a hand if it got here from Mars.
The jus-rich hen is roasted within the wood-fired oven; it’s a unprecedented specimen the place chicken got here thru as wet and juicy because the lightless.
However my Disagree. 1 selection is an inch-plus-thick, house-made beef sausage seasoned with fennel and chili served with Umbrian lentils. It appears to be like thick plenty to utility as a weapon however underneath the casing, it’s virtually as shiny at the tongue as French boudin blanc — a miraculous fusion of taste and texture. At $29, it’s additionally the most cost effective primary direction, with the braised veal shank and full branzino (each $64) being the priciest.
For dessert, don’t omit pistachio Affogato. In the event you concern the espresso will accumulation you up at night time, Pecorino Fiorello — a gentle sheep’s cheese served with sunflower honey — will form you holiday like a toddler, and form you need to return again for extra.
